Grass Roots Lawn Aeration

When clients ask how often they should aerate we suggest considering three factors: 1. What is the condition of the lawn? 2. What is the environment of the lawn (soil quality, sun exposure, slope, trees, tree roots)? 3. What are the expectations for the lawn? There can be a few combinations of answers to these questions. If your expectations are high, or the environment is challenging, or the condition of the lawn is poor we recommend aerating twice a year. If your expectations are moderate, or the environment is advantageous, or the condition of the lawn is good then aeration in the spring to maintain its health and maximize the impact of irrigation and fertilizer is probably the best option.

Spring and fall are the best times for these services.​

Yes!

Customers who have already reserved their lawn will receive a notice at least 2 days prior to the day of service. You can choose to be notified with a call, text, or email.

Mow the lawn to a height of 2"-4". ​ Water your lawn so that it is moist to a depth of at least 3 inches so we can pull ideal plugs. When walking on the lawn it should not move or feel squishy under foot due to over saturation. ​ Make your backyard accessible by unlocking a side gate and making sure the pathway to the backyard is free of obstacles such as trash bins.

Mark your sprinklers so that the sprinkler heads are clearly visible. Lawn flags are ideal for marking sprinklers.

We can complete our services without you being there and will leave a invoice with our billing information on your door. You may pay at your convenience by mail.

You may pay your bill using cash or check when we complete services or send us a check in the mail.

Moss often occurs on soil too compacted for grass roots. That is why we can see moss growing on rocks, sidewalks and bricks. Fall aeration loosens the soil before moss begins its growing season. After aeration service pumice (a small airy volcanic rock) may be worked into to the core holes, this helps to keep the holes open in areas that require better drainage. Compost or topsoil can be raked into the lawn to loosen clay soils.​

The aeration plugs are your lawn's topsoil which is essential for a healthy lawn. Our pricing does not include the disposal of the cores as we recommend against the practice. ​ If you choose to remove the plugs we recommend replacing them with topsoil or compost to avoid a soil deficit and compaction.

A power rake is a machine that removes thatch, moss and pine debris from the lawn's surface, makes shallow furrows for improved seed germination and helps to level the soil surface.

Thatch is an excessive accumulation of non-decomposing dried grasses in the canopy of the lawn or on the soil's surface. ​ Excessive accumulation of dead grass becomes habitat for pests including crane fly grubs. Thatch keeps soil dry just like a thatched roof keeps homes dry (especially if the lawn is sloped). Grass can more easily tolerate hot summer days without a thick blanket of thatch.

Thatch is primarily caused by the use of ammonium nitrate or urea fertilizers. Synthetic lawn products can reduce soil ecology to a point where dead grass can no longer decompose. A program using these products will require regular power raking to manage thatch buildup. Alternative fertilizers are listed below.​ ​

Power raking is a restorative service rather than a maintenance service therefore it should be done when the conditions of the lawn warrant action. When a layer of dead grass either matted on the soil surface or suspended in the canopy exceeds a thickness of .5 inch or there is a significant amount of moss, it's time to power rake. On our reservation form you may request that we offer our professional opinion about whether or not power raking will benefit your lawn. ​ Power raking is an excellent way to disturb soil prior to seeding for improved germination. The power rake creates shallow furrows from which the seed can sprout. Overseeding is recommended for lawns thinned by power raking of thatch and moss.​

It is a method of broadcasting fresh seed over an existing lawn to maintain a full canopy. We use a blend of Oregon grown rye and fescue seed. It is a fine bladed dark green grass that works well in sunny and shady areas.

New grass seed fills in sparse areas, competes with weed seeds, maintains thickness and lushness, and replenishes annual grasses.

Topsoil or compost added to the lawn immediately after seeding can improve germination rates and soil composition but it is not necessary. Seeds will srout from the aeration holes and the soil surface.

Yes. Carefully rake leaves that have fallen after overseeding. If left on the lawn they'll smother the sprouting grass.

If possible wait 2-3 weeks before mowing again. Raise the mower blades to their highest setting and mow without the bag. When seedlings are established lower the mower deck to encourage lateral spreading of rhizomes.

Do not allow your seeds to dry or they will die. Water your seeds and seedlings 2-3 times daily for 5-15 minutes, adjusting for weather conditions. Try to avoid puddling, runoff, and seed movement. The general strategy is to water more frequently but with less water.

Deeply saturate the lawn to a depth of 4-6 inches in the morning once every 3-4 days to encourage root growth and more resilient grass. Lawns with heavy clay soil, compaction, or slopes benefit from a quick primer watering a half hour before the main watering period.

After watering, use a spade shovel to test areas throughout the lawn to identify the depth to which the water penetrated for that amount of time. This is a great way to identify what specific zones need.

Soil pH powerfully impacts the health of lawns. The Willamette Valley tends to have acidic soils and benefits from occasional liming (calcium) to boost the pH and replenish what is lost with heavy winter rains. ​ Accurate application rates are determined by the soil's pH and composition, too much or too little lime can be harmful.

Leave your grass clippings on the lawn for a free pound of nitrogen per 1000 sq. ft annually. Leaving grass clippings on the lawn maintains soil depth and encourages beneficial life in the soil. This practice feeds the lawn at regular intervals while saving time money and effort. Using a mulching mower reduces clumping and debris size. ​ We recommend using natural fertilizers. Natural and organic fertilizers support the soil's ecosystem and build healthy topsoil, this in turn provides habitat for grasses to be successful within. ​ Naturally amended topsoil with compost has great slow release fertilizers, minerals and micro nutrients to feed the lawn. ​ In the long run natural and organic fertilizer programs will yield superior results at lower cost.

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